pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I'm not sure the text is to be trusted (is she seriously saying that the Finns are Norse? If not, why talk about Vikings at all?), but I like her ideas at the end about how to lay out all the bronze spirals for her apron so that they don't roll away -- single-sided tape! It's obvious in hindsight!

VIKING AGE FINLAND: Study and Recreation of the Eura Dress by Oonagh Bhan [PDF]

PS. my solution to the blisters and sore hands you get from over-enthusiastic use of the mandrel is to wear leather gloves. :)
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A few weeks ago, I commented on how the Tuukkala outfit was reconstructed with the mantle pinned on the shoulder.

I found a little bit more information in Ancient Finnish Costumes, p. 32, about where brooch-pins were found:
Read more... )

Also, interestingly, Satu Hovi's page says there was a male cloak in Eura cemetery that was reconstructed as 110x160 cm, which isn't much larger to the female ones from Perniö.
pearl: (tea)
The joint search portal of Finnish museums, Museums Online!

Not too much is in English, but if you're like me you want to look at the pictures. (Sorry it's a little random in terms of links, but I know not everyone here is obsessed about brooches...)

In a similar vein, here are some photos of the Kalevala Koru range of jewellery for 'ancient' dress, including prices.
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Apparently, a few years ago, there was a bit of media about Viking Age 'braids of hair wrapped in wood, leather... metal and Viking Age jewellery.'

It turns out, that they're actually 11th-13th century, so early medieval really. The Hull and East Riding Museum says they're "part of Finno Ugrian Culture. Grave goods excavated from a tumulus at Efaefsk (Efaevo), Russia, 1900." And there are fairly interesting photographs online, too.

If you go to their online collection catalogue, search for...

KINCM:2008.6067.75 (leather covered, not wood)
KINCM:2008.6067.76 (no cover, just hair and rings)
KINCM:2008.6067.78 (hair covered in leather, vegetable [f]ibre and textile)
KINCM:2008.6067.80 (a "beard tress"!)
KINCM:2008.6067.81 (just hair and rings)

This should cheer [ profile] cathyr19355 up: KINCM:2008.6067.42, KINCM:2008.6067.55, KINCM:2008.6067.56 and KINCM:2008.6067.58, are "omega brooches." They also have some of the pins with the spiral top that pop up on ebay as so-called Viking hair sticks, too. But haven't seen the style that has perforations and beads threaded through them, though.

According to the museum, in 1905 the British Museum purchased part of the collection, which you can search for using the term 'Efaevo.' No photographs, but more detailed written descriptions.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
It seems there might just be a 'plant fibre' underdress from Finland. Apparently it's in Ken kantaa Kalevalaa.

From: Satu Hovi (2010) "Female Viking Finn Costume" Tournaments Illuminated 173; 15-18, 28.

"In the cemetery of Masku, western Finland, an underdress made from plant fiber was found, dating to about 1000 CE. There were cloth fragments from both the upper and lower part of the garment. The fiber from the lower part was much more coarse than that of the upper, so the dress either has a fine upper part and a coarse lower part, which is a division very common in folk costumes from the 19th C., or the tunic and skirt were separate, as is seen in some Bronze Age Danish finds. In the later case, the separate skirt could be sewn as a tube length from the ankles to the breast. The skirt is girded with a tablet woven band in the waist and the leftover upper body length is allowed to fall and cover the belt."

The rest of the article is a more condensed and polished version of Satu's website, with a bit more emphasis on references. There is a lot of interesting things just casually referenced in it.

The interesting thing, is that Jenny Kangasvuo's page says the two-piece tunic is the Kaarina dress. The Kaarinan dress seems to have been analysed as part of Jaana Riikonen's masters thesis "Naisenhauta Kaarinan Kirkkomäessä.
But the reference for the reconstruction itself comes from (as best as I can tell) a book on folk costumes, called Ildiko Lehtinen and Pirkko Sihvo. 1984. Rahwaan puku /Folk Costume, Museovirasto, Helsinki. So, I'm guessing the people who are leaning towards the folk-costume dress (at the very least, the idea that tunics have waist seams, which I've vaguely mused about before), aren't trying to adapt the Eura gown idea? Who knows.

Also, the Institutet för Forntida Teknik has a document in .doc format about reconstructing the Kaarina headdress. (Google translate does a pretty good job.)
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I thought I should have (another) little rant about the Eura gown, since it'd be nice to have a discussion on my journal instead of [ profile] gargoyal3's. :)

I stopped because my ribs started hurting, but there is a lot more to write I promise. Feel free anyone who wants to comment, to say something.
Read more... )
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I hope this is some sort of translation error, otherwise WTF??

From: Headgear in Womens' Lives
...from the 1000 A.D to the middle of 1300 A.D., in Western Europe, women used to keep their hair wildly open. In 1100 A. D. in German literature are the first notes of the “schapel”, which was a headband used around the head to the keep hair from falling over the face, and in France it was widely used in 1200 A.D.

So, from the 11th to the 14th century, women had their hair uncovered? Maybe they mean it wasn't held back with a hairband?

The veil as a headgear of the Finnish women is from 1100 -1300 according to the archeological founds in Perniö, Tuukkala and in southeast Carelia.
Ok... I think they mean the arch-veil style here, since they started to find bronze-ringed fragments from the 11th century...

In Carelian tradition girl’s hair was normally cut already as a child. Before the confirmation they let the hair grow a little longer so that they could have their hair bound into the “sykeröt”, nuts for fastening the veil and its holders, if their own braids were already cut. The way, how the married women tied the veil, was often taught by a special veil – binder woman.

OK, this is really interesting, the hairpiece associated with the Kaukola grave has been interpreted as a sykerö and worn on the head with the veil.

Other Finnish links found:
Metsäpirtin puku -- A thesis on the construction of the dress of the Metsäpirtti region. Lots of diagrams and cool things.
Kaukola folk dress, with line diagrams. (including an interesting one of the shirt)

Finnish male dress circa 1600
Womens dress ca. 1600
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Where else in the world can your medieval clothes double as folk costume? :)
Read more... )
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I'm beginning to think there is something about Thor Ewings theory about the seperate skirt-and-yoke style tunics being native to Scandinavia.
(This doesn't mean I think the Eura gown is necessarily correct, not by any means.)

The latest thing to catch my eye is how the Jelling stone has been repainted so Jesus is being crucified in a really interesting shirt.

There's also the weird pendant from Taskula, Finland. (11th c. Scandinavia)

And there's the Daugmale pendant from Latvia which also has a very pleated-looking skirt. (There's a mis-labelled reproduction here, where I got my reproduction from, and a photo of the original here.)

Some off-topic images of medieval recorder players. and a 5th century BCE Sheepskin coat from Poland.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Articles from Finnish scholars about medieval toilets, in PDF.

Private privvies, earth closets, and house plumbing in the middle
ages, with photographs of extant toilets from Finland:

An article about sanitation and the use of water in Tampere, Finland
(mostly 19th century, however also has medieval information.)
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Tarja Halonen is in Australia *fangirl* and then she's going to New Zealand.

Ms. Halonen is such a cool president. She has worn a reconstruction of the Eura gown, has tasteful heraldry, has campaigned for gay rights, has cats, and speaks a stack of languages that puts me to shame.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
There's bound to be more pictures, but my Finnish isn't good enough to search effeciently for them.

And this links list is pretty cool too.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Just found out about this one. =)
Halikon puvun taustalla on Rikalanmäen hautalöydöt. Pukua on oletettavasti käyttänyt Rikalan emäntä juhlapukunaan vajaa tuhat vuotta sitten. Vähäisten löytöjen takia ei voida tietää, millainen puku on oikeasti ollut. Kukaan ei ole koskaan valmistanut virallista konstruktiota Halikon puvusta, sillä sen tekeminen tulisi erittäin kalliiksi.
(Will translate after I've finnished running around and squealing like a 5 year old.)

May I present, the Halikon puku from Haliko parish.

I can't figure out if this is a Viking-era reconstruction, or something earlier, since the jewellery they mention seems to span the 4th to the 12th centuries...

A photo of the reconstruction, and the jewellery with the outfit (which answers what the strange fibula-pin-thing is that I keep on finding for sale on ebay. See the bottom of the page. Or the Kalevala Koru catalogue.)

Also, the GreyWolves image gallery is back up, which means lots of amazingly good photos of Finnish garb reconstructions by hardcore LARPers. yay! =)

Also, photos of work by well-respected Finnish archaeologists, and their contact details.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
This is a fantastic website with photos and close-ups of the museum manniquins wearing the Eura and the Pernio gowns. Hidden in the site, however, is a real gem: step-by-step drawings of how to thread up the spirals to make patterns. (The first link is photographs of the finished product, the second is a Word document with the drawings.)

Finnish spiral-ornamentation differs from Baltic ornamentation in that the Finnish spirals are threaded on to cord, and then appliqued down to the fabric. (There are exceptions, such as the decoration at the end of the Pernio shawl, but you'll notice the rosette above the edge is appliqued on.)

Baltic work isn't so much with spirals, but little tubes of a piece of metal.* It often gets glossed as 'beads' which might even indicate that they're threaded in while weaving. They often appear on the iconic blue mantle. * (Threading them in while weaving makes a lot more sense than threading them in afterwards. Guess which I plan to do one day.)
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Ah, pretties.

Sample from Archaeological Research in Estonia 1865-2005. Is more about the history of archaeology than archaeological finds, but still looks cool. (Click on Loe näidist for the PDF)

A very short review (scroll down) of Trapezoid Tombstones in Estonia -- I had never really noticed that these even existed before, but doing a quick google search reveals I must have read about them previously when researching early figural sculptures.

Mary tablet weaving?
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
What Ancient Human Teeth Can Reveal? Demography, Health, Nutrition and Biological Relations in Luistari by Kati Salo is online for download.

Wordplay in Donald Duck comics and their Finnish translations by Maarit Koponen may be proof that Donald Duck is not banned in Finland.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
The round Finnish brooches at Raymonds Quiet Press are accurate for a Eura style outfit, only they come from grave 35, not grave 56 which is the really famous one. That's why they look so badly done, because they are a poorer version of the 56 brooches, but are actually spot on for the 35 ones. And just for reference, grave 35 is often considered to be a 'cross-dressing' Finn as she also carries an axe on her.

cut for graphics )

Source: Lehtosalo-Hilander, Pirkko-Liisa "Luistari II: The Artefacts" (Helsinki: Suomen Muinaismuistoyhdistyksen Aikakauskirja, 1982) 113
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
It's an entire university subject devoted to Finnish clothing reconstruction oooooh!

Some brooches and an interesting weave of fabric.
Modern reconstructions of Finnish dress.
There are Apparantly picture gallieries of artifacts and other shinies, but my slow 56k connection can't seem to cope with it.

A nice collection of links.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Stuff has been uploaded The draft of the SCA alternate titles which still needs work, but it's something, and the quick-n-dirty Finnish costuming glossary. I still need to add the adjectives and naalbidning section to that page.
Will hopefully type up the ueber-weaving glossary of Latvian soon...

Referring back to the entry on Latvian tablet weaving, the mystery villaine design appears to be based on a 10-13th century textile fragment documented by Anna Zarina. My spekky new book on Lithuanian belt weaving told me, although on other matters, Marija Gimbutas has a lot to answer for. (She was an excellent scholar by the way, and the book does make interesting connections between Indian and Baltic similarities in traditional design. I am more familiar with her studies of Baltic history and Lithuanian folk art books, which are pretty.)


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