pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
While looking for images for an utterly unrelated topic, I came across photos of that tomb that has been bugging me since 2008. (Illustrated in Polski Ubior as a sideless surcote and ruffled veil.)

It turns out it isn't Elizabeth of Brandenburg at all, but Anna Cieszyńska (ca. 1324-1367), but at least I had Legnica Cathedral as the correct location.

Here are some photos and drawings:,277712.html,277713.html (With information plaque)

A black-and-white photograph from above, by I. Panic
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
This is interesting, I don't agree with all of their conclusions (I can't figure out how the paired brooches were worn), and I do wish they had updated the PDF after the competition with photos of the finished pieces, but it's great to see people trying different things. :)

The Oseberg Cart Woman - C.E. 800

Also, here is an English summary on the Skjoldehamn find:
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Apparently people don't like looking at preserved corpses. So, don't click on these links.

I've been looking at more photos of the mummy from Osan, Korea, that is said to be from the 16th century.

English summary:

Here are photos (navigate with the arrows) of various stages of unpacking her coffin. I'm now very interested in the back of her head, and if the first image the page loads on ( is a small veil (garima?) in the upper right hand side of the photo.

And she had a teeeny tiny pouch!^con^b01^medi^click

Edit: and she is wearing a sock!¤tPage=1&listtype=0
pearl: (machine)
Managed to find a copy, and can now give a brief review of the article. (With, for anyone who stumbles upon this a little more background information about what you're looking at.)

So, the article in question is:

Judith Neukam 2011. "Zero Waste: Simple approaches to sewing garments with nary a leftover scrap" Threads no. 155 pp. 66-71.

The focus on the article is not about historical dress, but efficient cutting layouts. Still, on page 67 it suggests that 'zero waste' layouts can be found in historic dress, and it gives three examples; 'the viking dress', 'the bog coat', and 'the one-yard apron'. I'm only going to comment on the first two.

They essentially are a short paragraph describing the pattern, and a diagram of the cutting layout. It assumes that people are able to easily interpret from diagram to garment, which may not be the case.

The Bog Coat

Read more... )

The Viking Dress
Read more... )

Hope this is useful for someone!
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
A very sneaky person let me look at her books, and I think I like 15-16th century German stuff (at least, I think that's the sort of thing this lady in the Behem codex is wearing. (More scans here).

I'll ask a very big favour of my readers: I don't really want to be spoon-fed all the answers on how to make a dress like that, but I would like to know if it is similar to any other, more commonly re-created styles, and (because I have a poor sense of fashion) if those fantastic fur capelet/goller things could be worn with this sort of style? Hopefully if someone is kind enough to point me in the right direction, I can figure it out from there?

I've been like this all weekend... I know I'm over-excited and inarticulate like nobody's business. So let me know if I'm making no sense at all!
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Really, someone needs to tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree (or just plain barking mad), because I've been thinking about this since around December last year and it's been sitting in my mind for long enough that it makes sense. I have no idea if it is making sense to anyone else.

Even worse, I can think of (many) 'solutions' and 'tweaks' to the theory, and I'm not sure if it's because I've fallen for my pet theory, or because it is reasonable. So, here I am ranting on the internet about it.

The two biggest issues, I think, when it comes to me and my weird shawl ideas is...
a) the whole unattested-in-the-archaeological-record/differing-theories back cloth (so, Bau says straps. Hägg seems to think straps belong to other things. I'm an unpublished nobody who thinks an 8th century Gotlandic find is very important and is more akin to a second shawl.)
b) Getting the bottom edge of the 'triangular'-looking shawl to match up with the artwork seems to mean wearing it lower on the shoulders than normal, but front-on artwork doesn't seem to show this dropped-shoulder look. I don't have a solution. There is some contemporary Irish artwork of men wearing similar cloaks which might show a bit of distortion at the back, but nothing Norse that has a similar look. Maybe it just comes down to how little we can 'read' from inch-high metal figures?

On the other hand, the second shawl/backcloth (Geijer's 'veil'... and I can find no other mention of Vendel period women wearing veils. Anyone?) does have an unexpected benefit. If you're wearing a shawl lower on your shoulders, you're exposing more of your body to the cold than if you wrapped a shawl around you tightly. That second piece of wool seems to fill in the 'gap' and might keep you warmer, or at least warmer than having no layer there. And if you were using a small square, then you could cover your shoulders and not necessarily show a 'train'.
Photos of me with the funky-folded-rectangular-shawl and narrow scarf )
It's also entirely possible that after the shift in brooch position in the Viking Age from throat to chest level/below the brooches, that something similar might happen with the caftan (like what [ profile] engisdottir shows here), which would also provide extra coverage on the shoulders.

So is everyone just being polite and biting their tongues right now, or am I making something that sounds almost like sense? I know I have a collection of Viking Age interested people reading, I'm curious to know what you think!

(You can comment using open ID and don't need a dreamwidth account you know. I also have 5 or so invite codes to Dreamwidth if anyone wants one.)

pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Firstly, [ profile] teffania wanted to see what shawls wanted to look like on me, instead of what they looked like on my (comparatively) slim dress dummy.
(Thank-you [personal profile] aslan42 for taking photos and being patient.)

Big photos behind cut )

The other thing, is I'm still trying to figure out the Sandegårda find, and I think [ profile] hlinspjalda may have accidentally provided another piece to the puzzle. See, I couldn't quite figure out how the shawl fragments could have such 'weird' folding, but (most likely, according to guldgubber artwork) look symmetrical, and probably triangular.

Getting close to the answer... )

Ah, how I wish there was more evidence for plaid and striped shawls and cloaks. But they are so effective at showing how fabric drapes on a body. :( And that is a discussion for another time!
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Remember the cool-looking Baltic Costume Calendar with all of the gorgeous photos?

The amazing [ profile] cathyr19355 has pointed out that seems to be selling copies of it (no photo, but the text seems right.)
So if you were interested in getting a copy, this might be an easier way:

pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
[ profile] cathyr19355 has commented on the post about the Lithuanian calendar with a response from the distributor. (At the moment) it's the last comment on the livejournal post.

pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Via [ profile] by_ethno, there is a 2010-2011 calendar of pre-17th century Lithuanian dress that has been released.

The official site is here with an e-mail address contact if you want a copy (no idea if they can read English).
There are beautiful teaser photos on the by_ethno entry.

The only author name that I recognise is Daiva Steponavičienė, an archaeologist involved with Lietuvos Pilys, and the folk group Sedula who are supposed to wear 15th century dress.

Thought it might be useful for someone to know.

Update: [ profile] by_ethno has posted the 13-16th century teasers.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
No photos, but expect them soon!

hanbok update )
I'm not 100% happy with how this outfit has turned out, but that's one of the pleasures of making historic outfits-- you always learn something new. I just occasionally wish I wasn't so fascinated in things very few people seem interested in, because then I'd have more people to exchange ideas with. :)
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
Here's what I've found so far...
Read more... )

Another link, showing a reconstructed 16th century outfit:
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I've mentioned the painting of what seems to be court dancers before, but here it is again.
Ignoring the brightly coloured girls (as much as I want that overcoat), check out the girls in the lower left-hand corner.

If wikipedia is right, the headwear of an uinyeo/medicine woman, is a garima, which transliterating into hangul gives me these two pictures of a stiff veil-thing.
Could that be what the solid blue-ish thing on the back of their head is? Trying to show a veil that apparently is usually depicted as black, against black hair?

It is a longshot, since most 'traditional' elements of hanbok usually are 18th century, but it's interesting.
Mind you, wikipedia also says gisaeng wore po on their heads, wouldn't that mean a jangot/(장옷)?

In a sort-of related link: 16th century mummy and her reconstructed clothes!
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I've started sewing the jeogori, and am making it silver with blue trim.

So I've put in one side-gore, and pinned on a norigae (there is some evidence for norigae before 1600, and this one is a cheap but similar-looking one to the one worn by the mysterious lady in Miindo. I had mis-read a costume book, since it is often claimed that the painting is an 18th century interpretation of the 16th century Hwang Jin-i. But it seems the fact that it isn't actually a 16th century painting is often overlooked.)

So here is the colour combination:
Read more... )

And here is the top that I'm inspired by (my underarm gussets are too large, as always. But there is always next time.)
Read more... )

I don't think I'm doing too badly, for an outfit based on guesswork and staring at photographs. :)
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
So, I have a magenta-coloured skirt. What colour should the top be?

Or Purple-silver?

I'm thinking the silver, with the blue used for cuffs, collar, and overlapping panel. Or the blue as main and silver as accents.
But I'm also notorious for having dubious taste, and I don't want to accidentally blind people.


Mar. 10th, 2009 06:49 pm
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I have decided, I'm going to have a go at making a 16th c. Yangban-class Korean ladies outfit, for midwinter. At worst, by the time June rolls around, I'll have half-finished an outfit that I can then wear at something else. At best, I'll have finished it, and have enough time spare to work on a Livonian outfit (which there is no guarantee I'd be physically up to wearing, which is why it isn't top of the list.)

The list of what needs to be made )
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
My order of 5m of chain arrived today, so I spent my lunchtime attaching chain to chain-holders. Five metres (16.4 feet?) really doesn't go very far when you're draping it all over your chest. But, since that really was and is all I could justifiably afford to spend on this project, I'll just have to wear upper-thigh height chains. Oh, woe is me and my social status amongst the other Livonians in the SCA... o_O

If you think that sounds long enough, usually the chains are reconstructed as ending just above the knees:
Archaeological find: small picture here, on the lower right.
Reconstructions: here (on the left) and here.

People with long memories will remember the other finds from the grave that I was working on last year.

I really need to get off my bum and start figuring out the exact details of applying bronze spirals to fabric. If only the Livonians and Finns did it identically, then I would be laughing, but it is never that easy. (My best bet at the moment is to make up a bunch of spirals of different lengths, and see which ones are easier to keyring-style thread into fabric.) But I've been saying this for years now, and I can't see too much happening this year. Oh well. (It's moments like these I wish there were more people doing early period Baltic stuff around, because then we could compare notes and share books. Alas! Everyone is overseas, so I can't invite them over for a cup of tea.)

My Hood

Jan. 31st, 2009 07:47 pm
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
I forgot I have a webcam, so here are some low-quality images.

[ profile] felinophile, I hope you approve of this use of your fabric. :)
Read more... )

The yellow wool blend is a tabby weave, and it's all French seamed with a lemon yellow silk thread, and when that ran out, a poly-cotton thread. The 'embroidery' along the seams and strings are woollen; the embroidery thread is from Erickr's Homespun, dyed with Azelea, and the string is made from balls and balls of wool from the op-shop, that is also being used as cord-edging on the shirt.

What could be done better
The strings probably need moving further back, and if budget wasn't a concern I'd find some magical twill wool that fulls at the drop of a hat, so I could finish the hems with whipstitching without folding over. I'm very proud of the size of my french seams though!

My hems, with a pen for comparison:
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)

It does look very 13th century to me in shape, and it's sleeveless. How cool.
pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)
So, [ profile] j_v_lynch found my unloved dress-diary and has been asking about clothing. I found some really cool stuff un-related to his question.

I found the lj of [ profile] aslaug, and the scans put up of Latvian dress. ('ancient' dress) (folk dress)

It's too hot to do anything serious right now. It's 28°C(82.4°F) inside. That's just not right.


pearl: Black and white outline of a toadstool with paint splatters. (Default)

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